2026 After Wainwright - Last Day in London
18.05.2026 - 18.05.2026
Had a great day. London is such a big city, you can't get to see everything so you just have to pick one or two things a day.
The day started with sunshine but was forecast for rain by mid morning. We did the daily coffee pilgrimage to Pophams. Great coffee but at AUD $10 a pop, not cheap. Met up with Matt and Grace on their way to work. Work is no longer in our vocabulary - we have retired!
Scenes of Islington


Great war memorial in Islington

Nice way to hide railings 
Tradies drive Audis here. No need for utes
They must find a better way of waste disposal. The aftermath of foxes or dogs!
A dude called Bolton - looks like Sir Walter Raleigh Era (Lizzy the first)
A pigeon AGM

Pubs everywhere
Pub for men
How did these crutches end up on top of a kiosk? Can't be that immobile! Photo taken from the top deck of the bus. 
Aldis everywhere - Jenny Mac would love it here
Free entertainment for the homeless? I think he is actually mocking the homeless dude. To be fair, I haven't seen that manay homeless - not like Seattle or Vancouver
Wanky bookshop full of Pulitzer prize type books that ordinary people won't read - won't see Fifty Shades here
Really skanky tube station - Holloway
Bomb shelters cunningly disguised as bike sheds. They know Iran has ballistic missiles which can reach Britain
Clock tower in Islington
Captured the expression prefectly
Hampstead Heath
We caught a bus to Hampstead Heath. This is a big green park of more than 700 acres. There are a series of ponds/lakes each with its own purpose. I was surprised by the abundant birdlife which made me wish for my big rig camera but I think I did quite well with the little snappy. We walked a long way and still only explored a small bit of Hampstead. Lots of people and their dogs. There is a large Manor house - Kenwood House which was majestic.


Little town centre of Hampstead Heath. Our bus dropped us here


Kenwood house








Hampstead Heath

Great avenue


Rhododendrons are coming out - riot of colour




Don't know what species but they are definitely geese








Mandarin Ducks - these are really cute


My prized photos of the Mandarin Ducks


Modern art for you - get some crazy shapes and you are done! It is the size that is impressive. so size DO matter




Baby coots contemplating their first swim

you can't see him but there is someone swimming. This is the men's swimming pond, there is also a women's swimming pond but where is the transgender or unisex pond!! Bigoted bastards



Found this random tourist all over Hampstead

The ravens are massive. This fellow is sharpening his beak


English magpie - nowhere as vicious as their Aussie cousins

this dog can't resist the water - its hard wired into its DNA


I liked the rich colour of these flowers although they are going over.

Church in the distance

Dog walkers - quite a good gig. 5 pound per dog - 30 pounds for 6 dogs. Run them around a bit and the pooches will never complain.

Swan on the nest

Air traffic control - I am taking off now

Nice rose
We finally emerged from the park and had lunch at the historic Spaniards Inn. This is an old pub from the 1500s. Lots of history (see Addendum). The food was fantastic. I can say that England has come a long way from their stodge. I had the crispy duck watermelon salad which was absolutely delicious. I try not to think of the prices as it is pounds for dollars. I know I have said it before, I really don't know how people cope living in London.
The Spaniards Inn


The Inn
Unique flue over the fireplace or is it a rangehood?
Suitably atmospheric
Crispy duck watermelon salad
We caught a bus back to basecamp for the essential afternoon nanny nap.
We met Matt and Grace for an indian dinner! I have to say that it was one of the best curries and that is saying a lot from an expert. The best was the onion bhaji starter - I am going to try an make that when I get home. The roti was done Tamil style, flaky and suitably greasy!
We'll meet up with them for one last time at the pilgrimage cafe of Pophams before getting on the Eurostar to Amsterdam.


One of the best curries at the Tamil Crown
Addendum
Hampstead Heath
Hampstead Heath is an ancient heath in London, spanning 320 hectares (790 acres).[1] This grassy public space sits astride a sandy ridge, one of the highest points in London, running from Hampstead to Highgate, which rests on a band of London Clay.[2] The heath is rambling and hilly, embracing ponds, recent and ancient woodlands, a lido, playgrounds, and a training track, and it adjoins the former stately home of Kenwood House and its estate. The south-east part of the heath is Parliament Hill, from which the view over London is protected by law.[3]
Running along its eastern perimeter is a chain of ponds – including three open-air public swimming pools – which were originally reservoirs for drinking water from the River Fleet. The heath is a Site of Metropolitan Importance for Nature Conservation,[4] and part of Kenwood is a Site of Special Scientific Interest.[5] Lakeside concerts are held there in summer. The heath is managed by the City of London Corporation, and lies mostly within the London Borough of Camden, with the adjoining Hampstead Heath Extension and Golders Hill Park in the London Borough of Barnet.
Archaeological discoveries on Hampstead Heath, including tools from the Mesolithic, pits, postholes, and charred stones, point to the presence of a hunter-gatherer community around 7000 BC.[6]
Documentary evidence of Hampstead Heath dates from 986, when Ethelred the Unready granted five hides of land at "Hemstede" to the Abbot of Westminster. This same land is later recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086 as held by the monastery of St. Peter's at Westminster Abbey, and by then it is known as the "Manor of Hampstead".[7] Westminster held the land until 1133, when control of part of the manor was released to Richard de Balta; then during Henry II's reign the whole of the manor became privately owned by Alexander de Barentyn, the King's butler.
In 1767, the Manor of Hampstead and the estate which went with it came into the possession of the Wilson family following the marriage of General Sir Thomas Spencer Wilson, sixth baronet, to Jane Weller, niece and heir of the Revd. John Maryon. The estate consisted of 416 acres (168 ha), being mainly farmland to the west and north west of the village and including the heath.[8][9]
From 1808 to 1814 Hampstead Heath hosted a station in the shutter telegraph chain which connected the Admiralty in London to its naval ships in the port of Great Yarmouth.[10]
In 1821 Sir Thomas Maryon Wilson, eighth baronet, inherited the estate from his father. The construction of the Finchley Road through Hampstead promised to open up the land for development, but under the terms of his father's will, Sir Thomas could neither sell any of the land nor grant leases on it for periods greater than 21 years, thus making it unsuitable for building.[9][11]
In 1829 Sir Thomas tried to circumvent the will by promoting a bill in Parliament which would have allowed him to grant leases of up to 99 years. This was a straightforward procedure and would normally have been passed without difficulty but because the bill included a provision to build on the heath, it attracted considerable opposition. This came partly from individuals who held certain rights under the ancient system of copyhold, and also from influential figures who valued the heath as a natural asset and a place of recreation. The bill was passed by the House of Lords but was rejected by the House of Commons.[9]
In 1830 Sir Thomas lodged a second bill. This specifically excluded the heath from development, but it did not exclude the 60 acres (24 ha) East Park Estate which lay between the eastern part of the heath and Lord Mansfield's estate at Kenwood and Parliament Hill Fields. This bill also attracted opposition, on the grounds that if building was allowed on the East Park Estate, the East Heath would be surrounded by houses and its natural beauty would be lost. This bill also failed.[12]
Sir Thomas was to spend most of the rest of his life trying to obtain permission to grant leases for building. The matter became a cause célèbre, with the opposition being led by such influential figures as John Gurney Hoare and Lord Mansfield.[9][13]
Although unable to grant leases for building, there was nothing to prevent Sir Thomas from undertaking his own building work. In the mid 1840s, he drew up plans to build 28 villas on the East Park Estate. Work was started on an access road, a wall and a gamekeeper's hut, remnants of which still survive. However, because of landslips and problems of water penetration, attempts to build a viaduct to carry the road failed and the entire project was abandoned.[13][14]
In 1866 the Hampstead Heath Protection Fund Committee was formed, a forerunner of the Heath & Hampstead Society which still campaigns to protect the heath.[15]
In 1869 Sir Thomas died and the estate passed to his brother, Sir John Maryon Wilson. By now there was considerable pressure for public ownership of the heath. This was led by the Commons Preservation Society, which had been formed in 1865 with the specific aim of protecting common land.[16]
In 1870 the Metropolitan Board of Works agreed to buy the heath on behalf of the public at a cost of £45,000 plus £2,000 for legal fees. The board also agreed to compensate the copyholders for the loss of their rights.[17] The Hampstead Heath Act 1871 (34 & 35 Vict. c. lxxvii) was passed, stating that it would be "of great advantage to the inhabitants of the Metropolis if the Heath were always kept unenclosed and unbuilt on, its natural aspect and state being as far as may be preserved."[14][18]
Hampstead Heath Enlargement Act 1886
Pressure then grew to purchase the East Park Estate and the 200 acres (81 ha) Parliament Hill Fields, but no funds were available for this. A public fund-raising campaign was launched, led by the philanthropist Baroness Burdett-Coutts and the campaigner Octavia Hill.[14] This succeeded in raising the required £300,000, and in 1899 the East Park Estate and Parliament Hill Fields were added to the heath by the Hampstead Heath Enlargement Act 1886 (50 Vict. c. xli).[9][19]
Highgate Ponds
Hampstead Heath's Model Boating Pond (Highgate Pond No. 3)
Highgate Ponds are a series of eight former reservoirs, on the heath's east (Highgate) side, and were originally dug in the 17th and 18th centuries.[41] They include two single-sex swimming pools (the men's and ladies' bathing ponds), a model boating pond, and two ponds which serve as wildlife reserves: the Stock Pond and the Bird Sanctuary Pond. Fishing is allowed in some of the ponds, although this is threatened by proposals to modify the dams.
The ponds are the result of the 1777 damming of Hampstead Brook (one of the Fleet River's sources), by the Hampstead Water Company, which was formed in 1692 to meet London's growing water demands.[2]
"Boudicca's Mound", near the present men's bathing pond, is a tumulus where, according to local legend, Queen Boudicca (Boadicea) was buried after she and 10,000 Iceni warriors were defeated at Battle Bridge.[42] However, historical drawings and paintings of the area show no mound other than a 17th-century windmill.
Hampstead Ponds
Hampstead Pond No. 1
The Hampstead Ponds are three ponds in the heath's south-west corner, towards South End Green. Hampstead Pond No. 3 is the mixed bathing pond, where both sexes may swim.
Kenwood
Main article: Kenwood House
The area to the north of the heath is the Kenwood Estate and House – a total area of 50 hectares (120 acres) which is maintained by English Heritage. This became part of the heath when it was bequeathed to the nation by Lord Iveagh on his death in 1927, and opened to the public in 1928. The original house dates from the early 17th century. The orangery was added in about 1700.
Kenwood House (also known as the Iveagh Bequest) is a stately home in Hampstead, London, on the northern boundary of Hampstead Heath. The present house, built in the late 17th century, was remodelled in the 18th century for William Murray, 1st Earl of Mansfield by Scottish architect Robert Adam, serving as a residence for the Earls of Mansfield until the 20th century.
The house and part of the grounds were bought from the 6th Earl of Mansfield in 1925 by Edward Guinness, 1st Earl of Iveagh, and donated to the nation in 1927. The entire estate came under ownership of the London County Council and was open to the public by the end of the 1920s. It remains a popular local tourist attraction.
The original house on the property was presumed to have been built around 1616 by the King's Printer, John Bill, and was known as Caen Wood House.[1][2] It was acquired in 1694 by the Surveyor-General of the Ordnance, William Bridges, who demolished the house and rebuilt it; the original brick structure remains intact under the facade added in the 18th century.[1] The orangery was added in about 1700.[3] Bridges sold the house in 1704, and it went under several owners until 1754, when it was bought by the future Earl of Mansfield, William Murray, who was the Lord Chief Justice.[1]
Music concerts, originally classical but later predominantly pop concerts, were held by the lake on Saturday evenings every summer from 1951 until 2006, attracting many people to picnic and enjoy the music, scenery and fireworks. In February 2007, English Heritage decided to abandon these concerts owing to restrictions placed on them after protests from some local residents. On 19 March 2008, it was announced that the concerts would return to a new location on the Pasture Ground within the Kenwood Estate, with the number of concerts limited to eight per season
The Spaniards Inn
The Spaniards Inn is a historic pub on Spaniards Road between Hampstead and Highgate in London, England. It lies on the edge of Hampstead Heath near Kenwood House. It is a Grade II listed building, dating back to the 16th century
The pub is believed to have been built in 1585 on the Finchley boundary, with the tavern forming the entrance to the Bishop of London's estate; an original boundary stone from 1755 can still be seen in the front garden. Opposite it, there is a toll house built in around 1710. Today, the pub is in Barnet and the tollhouse is in Camden: both are now listed buildings, and traffic is reduced to one lane between the two. A suggestion in 1966 to demolish the tollhouse was successfully resisted, partly on the grounds that it would lead to more and faster traffic.[2]
Dick Turpin is thought to have been a regular at the Inn, as his father had been its landlord.[3] What is certain is that highwaymen frequented this area and likely used the Inn to watch the road; at that time the Inn was around two hours from London by coach[citation needed] and the area had its fair share of wealthy travellers. Records from the Old Bailey show that on 16 October 1751 Samuel Bacon was indicted for robbery on the King's Highway, and was caught 200 yards from the Spaniards.
In 1780, rioters involved in the Gordon Riots, opposed to the relaxation of laws in England that restricted Catholicism, marched on Hampstead, intent on attacking Kenwood House, the home of William Murray, 1st Earl of Mansfield. The landlord of the Spaniards at the time is reported to have given them free drinks, keeping the rioters occupied until the local militia arrived, thus saving the house.[4] In 1822, John Constable produced a landscape painting called Road to the Spaniards, Hampstead.
The pub is mentioned in Dickens's The Pickwick Papers and Bram Stoker's Dracula,[5] and was frequented by the artist Joshua Reynolds and the poets Byron and Keats. According to the pub, Keats wrote his Ode to a Nightingale in the gardens,[6] and Stoker borrowed one of their resident ghost stories to furnish the plot of Dracula.[dubious – discuss]
The Inn features in The Man of Property, the first of The Forsyte Saga novels by John Galsworthy. Soames Forsyte take the architect Philip Bosinny to dine at the Spaniards Inn to discuss the building of his house at Robin Hill. [7]
In 2007, The Spaniards Inn was listed in 4th place by The Guardian in an article detailing the "Top 10 UK pub roasts".[8] It was also listed by The Guardian as one of Britain's Best Pubs in 2009.[9]
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